Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Chavin vs Machu Picchu

If you want some world-class spectacular photos and don't mind enduring crowds and lines similar to those found at Disneyland, not to mention similar prices, then by all means head to Peru's southern highlands.  Machu Picchu is an amazing place with a well-deserved reputation as one of the must-see archeological sites on the planet. However performing any kind of spiritual ceremonies are frowned upon by the authorities these days. There is also the Machu Picchu trail which is wonderful but you have to make bookings a long time in advance and it is a fairly expensive trek to do.
My lovely wife Lourdes at Machu Picchu

On the other hand, if you are a contemplative and meditative person with an appreciation for peace and quiet and you don't like spending time in crowds or lines then spending time at the Chavin temple in the central highlands of Peru is the place to go.  It is also generally ok to do low-key ceremonies that do not attract attention right at the temple site such as traditional coca-leaf offerings and others. During my recent visit to Chavin it appeared to me that there were more 'mystical' tourists who likely had started the day with a huachuma ceremony than 'regular' tourists who had come in from the city of Huaraz by bus.  Right now I'm investigating doing the 3-day trek over the mountain pass from Huaraz to Chavin maybe later this year or next year and from what I have found out so far it will be a far less costly hike to do than the Machu Picchu trail with no Peruvian authorities monitoring anything.  Chavin overall is a much less costly place to go than Machu Picchu with entrance tickets, hotel rooms, food and transportation all at quite economical levels.

The Ceremonial Portal at Chavin

Also at Chavin you have my friend Martin Loarte who amongst other talents is a superlative stone, wood and bone carver.  Here is a a beautiful container he made from wood, deer antler and stone for the alkaline lime powder used to potentise the health-giving and mildly stimulating effects of chewing coca leaves which is traditionally done throughout the Andes mountain region.

Here is Martin Loarte who as well as being an excellent sculptor is also an impeccable hauchumero shaman.  In this photo he is performing a coca leaf offering in the center of the main ceremonial plaza at Chavin.  My esteemed compaƱero David Fields, the Brahmin cowboy from Portland, Oregon, USA sits behind.




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